Aston's Electrical

09/07/2019

Due to other commitments, I shall not be taking on any new electrical work at this time. I am leaving this page visible so that anyone interested may still be able to glean information from it in the hope that you are able to use it wisely.

If circumstances change, you shall all be the first to know.

Regards

Aston’s Electrical

08/05/2019

I appreciate that I do not post many of my jobs on here but I thought this was worth bringing to your attention. If you want to see more of my work let me know. I'll try and post bits and pieces that you may be interested in from time to time.

I have completed on a job yesterday whereby the electric heating circuit was tripping constantly, either on or off at the fused connection units.

There were a number of small panel heaters on one circuit and the RCBO would not stay energised.

After spending some time tracing and splitting the circuit the fault was traced to a curtain rail hook.

This type of fault is typical when people do not understand or pay no attention to electrical safe zones. In this instance the drill had gone through the cable that was feeding one of the panel heaters.

A section of the wall was removed to facilitate a repair to the cable before the piece of plasterboard being placed back utilising a piece of wood behind to screw into. All tests were carried out for the circuit which passed with flying colours.

A decorator then came round to fill in the holes and fit a curtain rail baton above the windows for the curtain rail hooks to affix to.

A costly mistake for the owner although I have to allow them some leeway as the fused connection unit was spurred from behind the heater where there was a junction.

If in doubt, call an electrician.

27/01/2019

Weekly Post

Well this has been a long time coming.

This week I am going to provide you with a link to a page on the NICEIC (National Inspection Council for Electrical Installation Contracting) website.

It is a campaign aimed at banning the bravado. It aims to raise awareness of the very real dangers presented by electrics and encourage people to avoid electrical DIY at all costs and instead choose a professional.

The link provides information on what 'Ban the Bravado' is, case studies and factsheets on electrical installations in different parts of your house. You can also use the link to find registered electricians in your area.

There are also a couple of light hearted videos on the dangers of DIY electrics and a rogues gallery (for which I have posted a couple of prime examples of very poor DIY electrics.

In the coming weeks I intend to publish the factsheets on these pages to ensure a large as possible distribution.

Ban the bravado – A campaign from NICEIC to combat dangerous DIY electrical jobs around the home by those with little or no experience

27/01/2019

Examples of poor installations. If you have electrics in your home that look like this or you think something isn't quite right. It is probably time you called an electrician.

16/11/2018

Weekly Tips 9

Firstly, may I apologise for the time between the last weekly post (8) and this one. I recently had other priorities and unfortunately these posts were shelved until an appropriate time. However, normal service is now resumed.

I would also like to ask, if you find these posts useful and there is a topic you would like to see. Please leave a comment and I'll see what I can do.

Winter

When we think of winter, we imagine snuggling up under a cosy electric blanket or warming ourselves next to a portable heater (although this being North Yorkshire, most of us have only just shut our windows). But do we think about electrical safety?

With an average of around 102 fires per day in December, it's important to remember that winter can be a risky time - overloaded plug sockets, fraying electric blankets and dodgy Christmas gifts can all contribute to the risk of fire or electric shock.

See below for tips on how to stay safe and warm this winter!

Electric blanket safety

To help you stay safe and warm in winter and to help reduce the number of unsafe electric blankets being used in homes, it is recommend that you follow these simple steps when purchasing, using, storing and disposing of your electric blanket.

Choosing an electric blanket

When looking to buy an electric blanket it is important to buy from a reputable retailer and to check that it has the UK Safety standard mark. Don’t buy second-hand blankets as they may no longer meet safety standards.

Using your electric blanket

Do

✓read and follow the manufacturer's instructions before use
✓examine your blanket regularly for signs of wear or damage
✓use the blanket only for the purpose the manufacturer intended, i.e:
- over-blankets must only be positioned above the occupant of the bed
- under-blankets must only be positioned under the occupant of the bed
✓check the manufacturer's instructions for suitability to wash your blanket
✓carry out a visual check of the blanket to make sure the blanket is intact with no visible signs of damage caused in transport when first purchased
✓if the fuse in the plug requires changing, only replace with the same rating BS 1362 fuse (Weekly Tips 5).

Don't

✗use the blanket whilst it is still folded, rucked or creased
✗use a hot water bottle at the same time as using your electric blanket
✗touch the blanket with wet hands or feet
✗insert or use pins to hold the blanket in place on the bed
✗use the under-blankets on adjustable beds, or if used on an adjustable bed, check that the blanket and cord do not become trapped or rucked, for example in hinges
✗use an electric blanket on the bed of a helpless person, an infant or a person who may have a condition that makes them insensitive to heat
✗allow the appliance to be used by young children unless the controls have been pre-set by a parent/carer or that you are satisfied that the child is able to use the appliance safely
✗allow people with pacemakers fitted to use heated bedding for all night use

Routine visual checks

Before putting your electric blanket on the bed to use over the winter months, take a few minutes to check that the blanket is safe for continued use.

Your blanket should be replaced with a new one if:

-Fabric is worn or frayed.
-Scorch marks or discoloration areas are visible on the fabric
-Wires are visible or poking through the fabric.
-There is damage to the flexible cord between the supply plug and the control and/or the control to the blanket.
-The control is making a buzzing sound when switched on and/or is giving off a smell.
-The connector fitted to the blanket is damaged or over-heating.

Storing your electric blanket

-When your blanket is not in use, it should be stored as the manufacturer recommends and moth proofing chemicals should not be used on it, or heavy items placed on top of it.
-It can even be left on the bed all year round, or loosely folded and stored in a cool dry place.

Safe disposal of blankets

If your blanket is more than 10 years old, you should consider disposing of it and buying a new one.
Disposing of your electric blanket should comply with EU legislation under the WEEE Directive. This means that blankets should not be disposed of with general domestic waste.

Blankets being disposed should be taken to a recycling facility which accepts electric and electronic appliances.
Check with your Local Authority for your nearest recycling centre.

Portable Heaters

As energy bills continue to rise, are you worried about how you are going to heat your home during the winter?
Using a portable heater to stay warm is a popular alternative to centrally heating the whole of your home.

Types of Portable Heater

The three most popular types of portable heater are:

Halogen Heaters

Halogen heaters operate by radiating infra-red light, they use halogen elements enclosed in lamps or bulbs which directly heats objects the light reaches. Halogen heaters therefore technically do not heat the air in the room.

Fan Heaters and Oil Filled Radiators

Fan heaters and oil filled radiators heat the air in the room in which they are placed.

Most of these fires are caused by people making basic mistakes that could easily be avoided, including:

-Knocking heaters over which is easily done, particularly if you have young children and pets running around.
-Covering with clothes/towels to dry.

Elderly people and children are particularly at risk, so when you are making sure elderly relatives and neighbours are warm, or your children are playing, follow our simple tips to make sure that they are safe.

Portable Heater Safety Tips

-Put your heater on a level surface, well away from anything that could knock it over
-Make sure your heater is at least a metre away from combustible materials, such as paper, furniture or curtains. Never use it to dry your clothes!
-Never leave your heater unattended whilst in use or while you are asleep
-Never power a heater from an extension lead – they can easily be overloaded and cause fires
-Regularly inspect your heater for damage and deterioration. If it isn’t in good condition, don’t use it!
-Avoid second hand heaters. Make sure you buy from recognised manufacturers and retailers.

Always register a new portable heater with the manufacturer. That way you can be contacted easily if a safety notice or recall is required.

17/09/2018

Accompanying photos for weekly tips 8

17/09/2018

Weekly Tips 8

What is an RCD?

An RCD, or residual current device, is a life-saving device which is designed to prevent you from getting a fatal electric shock if you touch something live, such as a bare wire. It can also provide some protection against electrical fires. RCDs offer a level of personal protection that ordinary fuses and circuit-breakers cannot provide.

What does an RCD do?

An RCD is a sensitive safety device that switches off electricity automatically if there is a fault.

An RCD is designed to protect against the risks of electrocution and fire caused by earth faults. For example, if you cut through the cable when mowing the lawn and accidentally touched the exposed live wires or a faulty appliance overheats causing electric current to flow to earth.

How does it work?

An RCD constantly monitors the electric current flowing through one or more circuits it is used to protect. If it detects electricity flowing down an unintended path, such as through a person who has touched a live part, the RCD will switch the circuit off very quickly, significantly reducing the risk of death or serious injury.

What are the main types of RCD?

RCDs can help protect you from electric shock in potentially dangerous areas like bathrooms and gardens, and there are various types of RCDs that can be used to make sure you are always as safe as possible.

Fixed RCDs

These are installed in the consumer unit (fusebox) and can provide protection to individual or groups of circuits. A fixed RCD provides the highest level of protection as it protects all the wiring and the sockets on a circuit, and any connected appliances.

Socket-Outlet RCDs

These are special socket-outlets with an RCD built into them which can be used in place of a standard socket-outlet. This type of RCD provides protection only to the person in contact with equipment, including its lead, plugged into the special socket-outlet.

Portable RCDs

These plug into any standard socket-outlet. An appliance can then be plugged into the RCD. They are useful when neither fixed nor socket-outlet RCDs are available but, as with socket-outlet RCDs, they provide protection only to the person in contact with the equipment, including its lead, plugged into the portable RCD.

Are RCDs reliable?

Fixed RCDs are about 97% reliable. This improves if they are tested regularly. If you have fixed RCD protection, it will reduce the risk of electric shock to you and your family. It can also protect your home against the risk of fire caused by faulty wiring or appliances.

Remember – Although RCD protection reduces the risk of death or injury from electric shock it does not reduce the need to be careful. Have your wiring checked at least once every 10 years to ensure the safety of you, your family and your home. If you find a fault with your wiring, or an appliance, stop using it immediately and contact a registered electrician.

Don’t forget to test – You should test all fixed and socket RCDs about every three months (with the introduction of 18th edition wiring regs this is now 6 months). Manufacturers recommend that portable RCDs are tested every time you use them.

Beware – If you hold the test button in for a long time and the RCD does not switch off the electricity supply, then get advice from a registered electrician.

The UK standard for safety – Since July 2008 virtually all circuits in new or rewired homes have been required to include an RCD under the latest edition of BS 7671.

How much will RCD protection cost?

A plug-in RCD can cost as little as £10. A fixed RCD will cost more, but will provide a greater degree of protection to help keep your family safe. Installation costs will vary, so we recommend getting several quotes before proceeding.

How do I check whether I already have fixed RCD protection?

To check if you have fixed RCD protection, go to your consumer unit and have a look to see if there is a device with a pushbutton marked ‘T’ or ‘Test’. This ‘test’ button is part of an RCD. If an RCD is fitted, there should also be a label on or near the consumer unit stating ‘test quarterly’ (6 monthly with 18th edition).

10/09/2018

Accompanying photos for weekly tips 7

10/09/2018

Weekly Tips 7

Fuseboxes

A fusebox, also known as a consumer unit (dependant on type), should be easy to find and is where the electricity in your home is controlled and distributed.

It’s important that you know where your fusebox is in case you ever need to turn the electricity off in an emergency.

It contains three things – the main switch, fuses and/or circuit breakers, and Residual Current Devices.

Main Switch – this allows you to turn off the electricity supply to your home. You might have more than one mains switch, for example if your home has electric storage heaters. In this case you may have a separate fusebox.

Residual Current Devices (RCD) these are switches that trip a circuit under dangerous conditions, and instantly disconnect the electricity.

For more on RCDs please read next week’s tips.

Miniature Circuit Breakers (MCB) – these are automatic protection devices in the fusebox that switch off a circuit if they detect a fault (overload). They are similar in size to fuses, but give more precise protection. When they ‘trip’, you can simply reset the switch. But make sure you correct the fault first.

There are also devices that combine the MCB and RCD into one device. These are known as Residual current operated Circuit Breaker with Overcurrent protection (RCBO).

With the introduction of 18th Edition Wiring Regulations (BS 7671:2018) new devices may also be required to fitted on all new board changes but your electrician will be able to advise you on these. The first is an Arc Fault Detection Device (AFDD), only advisory at present but will detect hidden internal damage to a cable and turn off the circuit. AFDD’s are currently expensive and take up a lot of space in the consumer unit so the initial take up will be slow until they become mandatory to fit. The second is a Surge Protection Device (SPD) and dependant on the location in the country and calculations that the electrician must perform will determine if these are required in your installation or not.

Fuses (may be found in place of circuit breakers) – re-wirable fuses have a piece of special fuse wire running between two screws. When a fault or overload current flows through the fuse wire, it will become hot and melt. The melted fuse breaks the circuit, disconnecting the faulty circuit and keeping you safe.

If your fusebox has a wooden back, cast iron switches, or a mixture of fuses it is likely that it dates back to before the 1960s and should be replaced.

Accompanying pictures will be posted so you will be able to identify what you are looking at.

If in doubt, give me a call.

03/09/2018

Accompanying photos for Weekly Tips 6

03/09/2018

Weekly Tips 6

Lamps (you plant bulbs)

There are a myriad of different types of lamp fittings dependant on manufacturer but for the purposes of this week’s tips I shall concentrate on the main fittings.

Within the UK household, consumer designed replaceable lamps generally fall into the following types:

• ES/E27 - Edison Screw
• SES/E14 - Small Edison Screw
• BC/B22 - Bayonet Cap
• SBC/B15 - Small Bayonet Cap
• GU10 - Twist lock bi-pin
• GU9 - Push fit looped bi-pin
• GU/G5.3 - Push fit bi-pin (5.3mm gap)
• GU/G4 - Push fit bi-pin (4mm gap)

There are other variations on the above but those above are the main ones.

Historically, the consumer would determine the brightness of a lamp by its wattage rating i.e. 100W, 60W, 40W however these ratings would only apply to incandescent lamps. Although you can still buy decorative incandescent lamps from specialist online retailers they are on the whole phased out from general purchase.

With the introduction of Halogen, CFL (Compact Fluorescent Light) and LEDs (Light Emitting Diode) more understanding is now required from consumers on the output of their lamps to ensure adequate lighting of their room and that they do not overload lamp fittings. A comparison chart is available in the pictures accompanying todays blog.

A move towards lumens (lm) (brightness) as a measure of lamp output is now common with LED lamps as well as colour measured in 1000s of K (Kelvin – is the SI (Systeme Internationale) unit of temperature. 0 degrees Kelvin : minus 273 degrees centigrade).

Note: as of the 1st September 2018 there is now a ban on the manufacture of non-directional halogen lamps GLS type (General Lamp Shape) although shops can sell off their remaining stock (halogen GU10 lamps were phased out in Sep 16).

As a rule of thumb, lighting circuits are designed for a maximum of 100W per light fitting. When you are deciding on replacing your single white plastic light fitting with a multi-lamp decorative light fitting please bear this in mind. Your circuit may be able to accommodate an increase in wattage at one light fitting but you must also adhere to the recommendations of the decorative light fitting. New light fittings will have labels detailing the maximum wattage of lamp that can be fitted and what type of lamp (LED, CFL etc). Do not exceed these ratings or you will draw too much current for the light fitting and cause it to overheat. Best case is it will stop working, worse case you will start a fire.

If you have a light fitting that you are changing the lamp on and think that I would like the room a bit brighter consider the below:

• Am I using the correct lamp fitting?
• Is there a label on the light fitting giving maximum wattage and will I go over it?
• If there is no label will changing the lamp(s) take the total wattage for the light fitting over 100W?
• Can I fit an LED to increase lumen output?
• Fit the best lamp you can afford, do not fit those off eBay. It is false economy and they may not be manufactured to the correct standards resulting in overheating or premature failure.

Lastly, safety. When changing a lamp always abide by the below:

• always ensure the switch is turned off. Firstly because if you do not the light fitting will be live at the lamp terminals which could give you an electric shock should you touch them. Secondly, you are working at height and the act of the lamp coming on as you are plugging it in may give you a fright and cause you to drop the lamp or fall off your ladders/steps.
• Use a stable platform with which to climb to the correct height – step ladders etc.
• Do not over-reach yourself. If you cannot reach safely with what you have in the house call a professional.
• If the lamp is broken (or breaks whilst you are removing it) use a cut down potato to remove it so as to not cut yourself.

If in doubt, give me a call.

27/08/2018

Accompanying photos for Weekly Tips 5.