The McKinley Group, Inc.

The McKinley Group, Inc. Commercial Landscape Management

06/15/2023

Urban Ag Council of Georgia Article - Georgia's professional association for the landscape, turfgrass and horticulture industry.

To Prune or not to Prune as We Assess Last Winter’s Damage
By Dr. Bodie Pennisi, Rick Smith, The Pruning Guru, and Dr. Jean Williams-Woodward
Without a doubt this last winter, Mother Nature threw some cold weather our way.
Having a hard freeze in December 2022 and January 2023 had homeowners and landscapers testing
their patience. Not only were they concerned if their shrubs survived, but they wondered if there’s
something that could be done to help things along. The question was, do we prune the damaged
plants now or wait? As difficult as it was, we kept telling folks to wait and see how the damaged plants
were going to respond to the spring warmup. Now that the dust has settled, we take stock.
We gathered information from North Georgia, Athens, Atlanta, Griffin, Fayetteville, and Stockbridge,
and visually assessed plant damage and recovery.
Naturally, the more northern locations experienced more severe symptoms but damage was
observed all throughout the state. Many shrubs, even some trees, and evergreen groundcovers were
affected. As ever - and to keep us from making blankets statements - boxwoods presented an
inconsistent picture - plants south of Atlanta, Athens, and White County showed damage (severe in
last two), while in north Metro locales they showed far less problems. Overall, the plants that took the
brunt were Osmanthus (Tea Olives), Pittosporums, Gardenias, Loropetalums, and Camellia
Sasanquas.
Osmanthus (Tea Olives) had the most noticeable effect with rapid defoliation within 3 days after the
initial freeze. The second cold snap came after the new leaves started to come out, which was the
equivalent of a one-two punch. This was a very concerning as it is not a common event. The good
news is that most of the shrubs we have seen survived. They will appear weaker than normal this
year but should fully recover in 2025. Of course, that depends on dry spells, and any other adverse
conditions, which may slow growth.
Pittosporums also took a beating, especially if they were the (MOJO). The bark on these literally
exploded and caused their demise. Of all the species, this one was probably the most expensive to
replace for homeowners.
Gardenias were the plant that everyone asked the most about. Out of all the plants, these beauties
really tested our patience the most. In North Georgia, they stubbornly held off giving any indication
which way they’d go, and only recently showing signs of recovery. Unfortunately, some plants in most
northern locations did not survive (Rick has to replace his). Good news is that they too, are starting to
push out new growth.
Loropetalums and Sasanquas were probably evenly matched when it came to the amount of cold
damage they experienced.
Overall, north Georgia had 20+ different species of plants that were mildly to severely damaged.
Here’s the list:
1. Osmanthus
2. Pittosporum
3. Gardenia
4. Loropetalum
5. Sasanqua camellia
6. Boxwood
7. Rosemary
8. Hydrangea
9. Abelia
10.Indian hawthorn
11.Fatsia
12.Cleyera
13.Nandina
14.Mahonia
15.Azalea
16.Ligustrum
17.Distylium
18.Sweetbox
19.Hinoki cypress
20.Arizona cypress
21.Spring Bouquet viburnum
22.Daphne
23.Ajuga
24.Confederate jasmine
25.Creeping raspberry
26.Spirea
27.Liriope
28.Aspidistra
As far as symptoms are concerned – immediate one within the first few days is light-colored,
bleached foliage/shoot, later turning brown/dark brown. Afterwards and depending on further cold
exposure, we see individual branch death, top dieback, complete dieback, exploded/sloughing bark or
vertical cracking on trunks, slow leafing out, and/or reduced bloom presentation (see photo gallery).
Most often, freeze damage is seen on the west-to southwest-facing sides of plants. The damage is
directional, along the coldest gradient. The amount of damage has to do with what stage of growth
was present at the time of the freeze event. Those that were growing well and flushing new growth
were most damaged. Those not showing as much damage now are actually more stressed and
slower growing plants. Their growth developed after the freeze event.
Plants under trees, near buildings, and/or on higher ground fared better. The cold air sat in one spot
longer than other, or the wind blew in the same direction pushing the cold air against the plants.
Worst case scenario is when a freeze event is followed by a prolonged warm spell, and tailed by a
second freeze/cold exposure. During the middle part, the plant starts pushing new growth, which is
far more susceptible to cold damage. The new growth taps into stored reserves, and when killed by
the second cold snap, those spent reserves are gone for good. This depletion of stored reserves
weakens the plant, causing slow leaf out and recovery. If this freeze-warm-freeze happens again
during the winter/spring, it could be disastrous for the plant.
Back to the original question, do we prune or not prune? In our professional opinion, it is now time to
prune them. If they have not produced new growth presently, they probably will not. If they are
opening new buds, pruning them will help promote the energy from the root system to go where it is
needed.

Time to mow your bermuda turf, here are some good guide lines for the proper mowing and care of your warm season turf, l...
05/10/2022

Time to mow your bermuda turf, here are some good guide lines for the proper mowing and care of your warm season turf, let us know what you think:

Every lawn grass has a height at which it should be mowed for best health. The rule is that only one-third of a grass plant should be removed in one mowing. As an example, if you intend to mow your bermudagrass lawn at a 2 inch height, you can allow it to grow to 3 inches between mowings. If you fertilize moderately, mowing a lawn should only be needed once per week.

Measure the mowing height by stationing the mower on a flat surface and noting the distance between the blade and the ground. Make sure all four mower wheels are set to the same height.

The first step in good mowing is to have a sharp blade. If the blade has not been sharpened in the past year, it needs to be sharpened or replaced. Dull blades whip the grass ends rather than cutting the grass. The ragged ends left by a dull blade cause a lawn to look yellowish the day after you mow. Ragged grass blades also lead to more water use by the grass and possibly an increase in disease.

Bermudagrass lawns need to be cut at a height of 1 to 1 1/2 inches. Rotary mowers can do a good job if your bermudagrass lawn is relatively smooth and you keep the blade sharp. Otherwise, a more expensive reel mower will be needed. It is best to start at a 1 inch height in spring and gradually raise the height when hot weather arrives. Research indicates that a height of 2 inches is best when growing bermuda in partial shade.

The grass will need to be mowed whenever it has grown to 3 inches tall. In this way, only one third of the green part of the plant will be removed by mowing. If you allow the grass to get much taller than 3 inches you’ll mow down into the stems that have grown tall and the lawn will not look its best after you mow.

In fall, let the grass go dormant without excessive mowing. It will have a nice brown color during the winter. In mid March, mow off the top brown blades to expose the soil to the sun and warm the soil. Scalping the grass very low is not necessary. Burning the dead grass is also not recommended. It is illegal in most areas and it is dangerous in all places.

It is not necessary to catch the clippings when you mow. Research has shown that letting the clippings fall on the ground does not lead to disease or thatch problems. The clippings actually return nitrogen to the soil and save you money on fertilizer.

Bermudagrass does not usually form a thatch layer under the grass if it is mowed regularly. Using a de-thatcher when it is not needed can hurt the grass more than it helps. If the turf seems to be growing directly in the soil and if the thatch is less than 1/2 inch thick, don’t use a dethatcher.

Give us a call at 770.806.6550 if you have any questions or if we can be of service to your commercial landscape needs!

Accolades from your clients are the best! Congrats to our enhancement team at TMG for always delivering on curb appeal i...
01/21/2022

Accolades from your clients are the best! Congrats to our enhancement team at TMG for always delivering on curb appeal improvement! Mr. Franklin also delivered on a great "Dad" joke below! 😁

The McKinley Group Inc. offers professional commercial landscaping services in Metro Atlanta that are creative, innovative and comprehensive.

TMG Manager's Year End celebration! Merry Christmas to all our clients, friends and family!
12/19/2021

TMG Manager's Year End celebration! Merry Christmas to all our clients, friends and family!

To all Landscape Management Contractors....
05/10/2021

To all Landscape Management Contractors....

Leadership team Christmas dinner and celebration.
12/22/2018

Leadership team Christmas dinner and celebration.

Company Christmas luncheon and safety gifts raffle, the best team in the industry!
12/22/2018

Company Christmas luncheon and safety gifts raffle, the best team in the industry!

Hard at work keeping our clients curb appeal above the rest!
10/31/2018

Hard at work keeping our clients curb appeal above the rest!

Another spray unit to better serve our clients and keep our turf green and w**d free!
03/23/2018

Another spray unit to better serve our clients and keep our turf green and w**d free!

01/02/2018

To protect plants from cold damage, University of Georgia Extension horticulturists recommend following these six steps:
• Plant only varieties that are hardy for the area.
• Given a choice, plant less-hardy plants in the highest part of the landscape. Cold air settles in the lowest area.
• Protect plants from cold wind with a fence or a tall evergreen hedge of trees or shrubs.
• Shade plants from direct winter sun, especially early morning sunshine. Plants that freeze slowly and thaw slowly will be damaged the least. The south side of the house, where there is no shade, is the worse place to plant tender plants.
• Stop feeding plants quickly available nitrogen in late summer to allow them to "harden off" before cold weather arrives.
• Plastic covering provides excellent protection. Build a frame over the plant or plants, cover them with plastic and secure the plastic to the ground with soil. Shade plastic to keep temperatures from building up inside. Plastic traps moisture and warm air as it radiates from the soil and blocks cold winds. Do not allow the plastic to touch plants.

Hibiscus in full bloom here in the ATL
06/21/2017

Hibiscus in full bloom here in the ATL

Seasonal color designs at some of our properties!
06/20/2017

Seasonal color designs at some of our properties!

Address

5250 Webb Pkwy NW
Lilburn, GA
30047

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Wednesday 8:30am - 5pm
Thursday 8:30am - 5pm
Friday 8:30am - 5pm

Telephone

+17708066550

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