10/17/2023
Turned 76 today and started the day with an early morning surf. Can't remember when I was last in the ocean...maybe late August. The first real Fall/Winter swell on the West Coast is building and I caught one of my favorite out-of-the-way breaks offering shoulder-high+ peaks and nobody out. Had it to myself for about an hour. Caught more than my share, and paddled in when the tide started to spoil the fun and four others paddled out. Love riding my T-Belly, always leave the water with a smile on my face.