The Sawyer Tree Service

05/24/2016

HOW TO IDENTIFY PRST&DISEASE PROBLEMS

Emerald Ash Borer
To properly diagnose a pest or disease problem begin by contacting the Cooperative Extension Service in your county or parish.

Your local Cooperative Extension agent is the best source for assistance with home gardening pest and disease questions. With the help of volunteer Master Gardeners, your County Cooperative Extension can quickly answer most inquiries about plant health care and local conditions. Extension specialists are also available to perform pest and disease diagnosis for homeowners and professionals—including certified arborists, nursery growers, landscapers, and orchardists.

Our online Tree Health Guide provides immediate access to a network of professional arborists, foresters, and Cooperative Extension Service agents to provide effective best management practices for insect problems and plant diseases

05/24/2016

from Planting to Maturity

Tree pruning, trimming, or cutting is an ongoing process throughout the life of your tree. After selecting the right tree and carefully planting it, early pruning is the most important thing you can do for a young tree.

Pruning
Proper pruning will save you money and give you a safer more beautiful, healthier, and easier-to-maintain tree. Remember what you do to your tree in its first few years of life will affect its shape, strength, and even its life span.

04/23/2016

About Trees

KEYS TO GOOD PRUNING
1 visual inspection at the top of the tree and work downward.

2 Use The ⅓ and ¼ Rules of Pruning

* Never remove more than ¼ of a tree’s crown in a season

* Ideally main side branches should be at least ⅓ smaller than the diameter of the trunk.

* For most deciduous (broadleaf) trees, don’t prune up from the bottom any more than ⅓ of the tree’s total height.

* Where possible, try to encourage side branches that form angles that are ⅓ off vertical that form “10 o’clock” or “2 o’clock” angles with the trunk.

3 For most species, the tree should have a single trunk. Identify the best leader and later branches before you begin pruning and remove defective parts before pruning for form.

4 Don’t worry about protecting pruning cuts. For aesthetics, you may feel better painting large wounds but it doesn’t prevent or reduce decay.

5 Keep tools sharp. One-hand pruning shears with curved blades work best on young trees.

6 Diagram of proper pruning at the collar For high branches use a pruner pole . A major job on a big tree should be done by a professional arborist.

7 For larger branches, cut outside the branch bark and ridge collar (swollen area). Do not leave a protruding stub. If the limb is too small to have formed a collar cut close.

8 When simply shortening a small branch, make the cut at a lateral bud or another lateral branch. Favor a bud that will produce a branch that will grow in desired direction (usually outward). The cut should be sharp and clean and made at a slight angle about ¼ inch beyond the bud

Now that you know the pruning basics learn what steps you should take throughout your trees life.

04/20/2016

WHEN TO PRUNE

This depends to a large extent on why you prune. Light pruning and the removal of dead wood can be done anytime. Otherwise, here are some guidelines, but recognizing that individual species may differ is important to remember.

WINTER PRUNING

Pruning during dormancy is the most common practice. It results in a vigorous burst of new growth in the spring and should be used if that is the desired effect. It is usually best to wait until the coldest part of winter has passed. Some species, such as maple, walnuts and birches, may “bleed”—when the sap begins to flow. This is not harmful and will cease when the tree leafs out.

SUMMER PRUNING

To direct the growth by slowing the branches you don’t want; or to slow “dwarf” the development of a tree or branch, pruning should be done soon after seasonal growth is complete. The reason for the slowing effect is that you reduce the total leaf surface, thereby reducing the amount of food manufactured and sent to the roots. Another reason to prune in the summer is for corrective purposes. Defective limbs can be seen more easily, or limbs that hang down too far under the weight of the leaves.

PRUNING FLOWERING TREES TO ENHANCE FLOWERING

If your purpose for pruning is to enhance flowering:

1 For trees that bloom in spring, prune when their flowers fade.

2 Trees and shrubs that flower in mid- to late summer should be pruned in winter or early spring.

WHEN NOT TO PRUNE: FALL

Because decay fungi spread their spores profusely in the fall and healing of wounds seems to be slower on fall on cuts, this is a good time to leave your pruning tools in storage.

04/17/2016

TREE WATERING

Tree watering is a key part of tree care and it is difficult to recommend an exact amount due to the varieties of climates. But a few rules of thumb will help guide you to water your trees properly.

WATERING NEWLY PLANTED TREES :
For new trees, water immediately after you plant a tree.

WATERING TREES DURING FIRST TWO YEARS :
During the first couple growing seasons, your newly planted tree is expending a lot of energy trying to get its roots established in the soil. Especially during the first few summers of your new trees life, it will have a difficult time dealing with heat and drought. You can make this easier by providing water and covering the soil with wood-chip mulch. Deep watering can help speed the root establishment. Deep water consists of keeping the soil moist to a depth that includes all the roots.

HOW MUCH WATER AND WHEN :
Not enough water is harmful for the tree but too much water is bad as well. Over-watering is a common tree care mistake. Please note that moist is different than soggy, and you can judge this by feel. A damp soil that dries for a short period will allow adequate oxygen to permeate the soil.

As a rule of thumb your soil should be moist. Usually 30 seconds with a steady stream of water from a garden hose w/ a diffuser nozzle per tree seedling is sufficient. Mulching is also key in retaining moisture in the soil.

You can check soil moisture by using a garden trowel and inserting it into the ground to a depth of 2", and then move the blade of the trowel back and forth to create a small narrow trench. Then use your finger to touch the soil. If it is moist to the touch, then they do not need water.

WATERING TREES AFTER THE FIRST TWO YEARS :
After your tree has been established in your yard for two years the roots will be established. This will allow your tree to withstand a wider range of water conditions including on its own because it has a proper root structure.

DROUGHT TOLERANT SPECIES

If your area constantly deals with drought you will want to consider trees listed as drought-tolerant. These trees are adapted to sites in their native habitat that regularly experience prolonged dry spells. Although they are native to drought and are more tolerant than others the first few years of life is critical to the survival of the tree and following the steps above will help your trees grow.

Some Drought-Tolerant Species Includ Thornless Honeylocust (Zones 3 to 9)
Arizona Cypress (Zones 7 to 9)
Japanese Zelkova (Zones 5 to 8)
White Fir (Zones 4 to 7)
Kentucky Coffeetree (Zones 3 to 8)

HIGH SOIL MOISTURE TOLERANT SPECIES

On the opposite side of the spectrum if your area deals with a large amount of moisture or wet conditions here are a few trees that will do better in wet conditions.

Baldcypress (Zones 4 to 10)
Shellbark Hickory (Zones 5 to 8)
Red Maple (Zones 3 to 9)
Silver Maple (Zones 3 to 9)
Paper Birch (Zones 2 to 7)
River Birch (Zones 4 to 9)
Weeping Willow (Zones 6 to 8)

NEXT TIP: WHEN TO PRUNE

04/16/2016

THE IMPORTANCE OF MULCHING

A newly planted tree’s best friend is mulch. It is very important to remember to mulch your tree after you have planted it.

MULCH IS A VALUABLE ASSET TO YOUR TREES HEALTH AND CARE BECAUSE :

Mulch insulates the soil helping to provide a buffer from heat and cold temperatures.

Mulch retains water helping to keep the roots moist.

Mulch keeps weeds out to help prevent root competition.

Mulch prevents soil compaction.

Mulch reduces lawn mower damage

STEPS TO ADDING MULCH AROUND YOUR TREE

1. Add mulch to the base of your tree by removing any grass within a 3 to 10 foot area depending on the size of your tree.
2. Pour natural mulch such as wood chips or bark pieces 2 to 4 inches deep within the circle.
3. Keep the mulch from touching the trunk of the tree.

TOMORROW'S TIP : TREE WATERING

04/15/2016

Here are some step by step videos to assist you in planting your trees.

Watch these step by step videos and learn how to plant your new tree.

04/14/2016

Selecting a Healthy Tree

Good tree care starts with a healthy tree. Follow these tips and learn how to buy a tree.

What to Look for on Your New Tree

Inspecting your tree upon delivery or at the nursery will help your tree provide a lifetime of benefits.

Bare root tree: Abundant root growth, fiberous and numerous small roots, good color; moistBalled and burlapped tree (B&B): Firm soil ball, with trunk securely tied. Do not accept a plant with a broken “ball”. Do not accept a tree with circling roots at the base of the trunk. Always carry B&B plants by the soil ball, not the trunk, stems or branches.Container-grown tree (containerized and potted): Avoid trees that are “root-bound” in the can. Roots can circle around the edge of the container may become circling roots. (Cut any circling roots when planting.) Because of this, B&B trees are generally preferred for large trees. Always remove can, basket or pot when planting.

Bare Root Seedlings

Roots should be moist & fibrous.Deciduous seedlings should have roots about equal to stem length.

Balled & Burlapped

Root ball should be firm to the touch, especially near the trunk.Root ball should be adequate for the tree’s size.

Potted

Pot should not contain large, circling roots.Pruned roots cut cleanly, none wider than a finger.Soil & roots joined tightly.

Some Extra Things to Consider When Purchasing Mature Trees

When choosing trees for city plantings along streets and in parks, you will want to trees with fairly substantial caliper (trunk diameter).

Strong, well-developed leader (or leaders in a multi-leader tree).Bright, healthy bark.Trunk & limbs free of insect or mechanical injury.Branches well-distributed around trunk, considerably smaller caliper than trunk.Ideal spacing between branches, at least 8–12" for most species.Good trunk taper.Wide-angle crotches for strength.Low branches—they are temporary, but help develop taper, promote trunk caliper growth, and prevent sun damage.

After a good start with good nursery stock, now it is time to learn how to plant your tree.

04/13/2016

FINDING A TREE

Proper tree care begins with selecting the right tree and planting it in the right place. Trees are for a lifetime, so it pays to spend time now making sure that your tree will thrive where you want to plant it.

Find a tree with the Arbor Day Tree Wizard.This free online tool will help you narrow down your choices and help you select theright tree for the right place.

WRONGTREES, WRONG PLACES

Planting large trees under utility lines can eventually mean mutilated trees as they grow to maturity. Large evergreens close to the house on the south block warming winter sunlight. No trees on the north side of the house can leave it vulnerable to icy winter winds.

BETTER CHOICES

Short, flowering trees don’t clash with overhead utility lines. Large deciduous trees on the southeast, southwest, and west provide cooling shade in the summer, but don’t obstruct the low winter sun. An evergreen windbreak on the north blocks cold winds in winter.

Step 1—The Tree’s Purpose: Start by defining the purpose for your new tree. Common purposes include aesthetics, privacy, shade/energy reduction, windbreak, or street tree. Your end goal will impact the suitability of different trees.

Step 2: Next consider your planting site limitations. The information in our Tree Guidelists important things to consider for each tree, including:

Hardiness Zone: your location and weather have a tremendous impact on what trees will grow.Height and Spread of Mature Trees:Example overhead wires will limit the height of mature tree and you will want to select a shorter tree. The chart below is a great representation of the range of heights of tree species.Sun Exposure: The sun exposure in your planting area will greatly affect how your tree grows.Soil Conditions: Some trees can grow in only specific types of soil, while others can grow in almost any condition the type of soil. Determining what type of soil you have in your yard will help you find the right tree.

Find a tree with the Arbor Day Tree Wizard.This free online tool will help you narrow down your choices and help you select the right tree for the right place following steps 1 and 2.

Now that you have found the right tree, lets learn how to select a healthy tree.

At The Sawyer Tree Service

We encourage you to plant .

TOMORROW'S TIP:
SELECTING A HEALTHY TREE

04/12/2016

Why, When, & How to Prune Your Trees



Pruning a tree is removing specific branches or stems to benefit the whole tree.

Why prune a tree?

Health

Remove dead, damaged and diseased branches to help prevent insect & decay organisms from entering the tree.

Thin a dense canopy on a tree to increase air and sunlight, resulting in fewer disease problems.

Remove suckers & water sprouts to eliminate weak wood and provide more food and water for the tree.

Eliminate crossing branches to prevent damage caused by their rubbing against each other.

Weak or narrow crotches split apart as the tree grows older. Remove these crotches to eliminate breaking and tearing of wood.

Remove co-dominant leaders. Co-dominant leaders are 2 branches growing near the top of a tree that grow straight up and become equally dominant. Cutting off one allows the other branch to grow & become the dominant branch. This prevents the branches from splitting and tearing wood that is often a problem in heavy winds.

Safety

Correct pruning procedures create & maintain a strong tree structure, preventing safety hazards such as low growing branches and growth forms subject to storm damage near a sidewalk or driveway.

Maintain natural tree form

Often erratic or vigorous branches grow that change the growth habit of other branches, this results in a misshaped tree. Early removal of these vigorous branches maintains a natural tree form.

Stimulate or restrict growth

Pruning can stimulate growth in sparse areas of the tree. Pruning can also restrict growth where too much growth is undesirable.

When do you prune a tree?

Dead, damaged, and diseased branches should be removed as soon as possible. Otherwise, the best time to prune is in late winter, early spring, just before the tree begins to open its buds. Some trees, such as maple and dogwood, will bleed sap at this time of year. This bleeding should not harm them. While pruning can be done anytime, it is always good to avoid hot dry periods and extreme winter cold. If you do prune trees after the leaves have opened, be sure to allow them to fully develop their leaves plus some additional time to recoup the energy they used.

How do you prune a tree?

Getting Started

The first rule before a cut is made is to determine why and what is to be pruned. Start with a plan. Then decide what equipment is to be used. Most pruning tasks can be done with hand pruners, loppers and a pruning saw.

Hand pruners. There are 2 types of hand pruners, bypass and anvil. Bypass pruners cut like scissors. One sharp blade slides past another sharp blade resulting in a good clean cut. The cutting action of anvil pruners is one sharp blade cutting against a flat surface blade. This type of action tends to crush tissue on the underside of a stem. Bypass pruners are recommended because of the clean cut. Crushing opens up plant tissue to infection. Both types of hand pruners are made to cut wood ½ to ¾ inch diameter.

Loppers. There are also 2 types of loppers, bypass and anvil. Loppers have larger blades and longer handles that are designed to cut wood ¾ inch up to 1 ½ inch diameter. The bypass lopper is recommended.

Pruning saws. The new tri-edge folding saws are replacing the older bow saws. These saws quickly and easily cut wood up to 3” diameter.

How to Cut

The very act of pruning wounds the tree. When done right, pruning can help trees. When done wrong, it will harm them. Flush cuts and leaving a stub are two examples of improper pruning.

Trees do not ‘heal’ their wounds. When a branch is cut off it is gone, it doesn’t grow another branch. Trees ‘seal’ their wounds. When pruned right, a callus grows like a donut, starting at the edge and growing in until the callus covers the cut.

Inside the tree a chemical boundary is formed around the wounded area that compartmentalizes the wound. Compartmentalization limits any decay that may occur from wounding.

Flush cuts and leaving on stubs cause wounds that will not callus over or compartmentalize. The tree will begin to rot in these areas.

When pruning a branch off the tree’s trunk, knowing and locating the branch collar & branch bark ridge is very important. The branch collar is a swelling that forms around the base of the branch. (See figure.) The branch bark ridge is slightly raised, dark, rough bark that forms where the branch and trunk tissue meet. These are the areas on a tree that contain the chemicals that initiate the callus growth and the compartmentalization that protect the wound created by the cut.

Cutting into these areas is unhealthy for the tree and should be avoided. When removing a large heavy branch, 3 cuts are necessary to avoid tearing into the branch collar.

Finally, don’t spoil your correct pruning job by coating the cut with tree paint or wound dressing. Many years of research indicate they do nothing to prevent decay and nothing to promote closure of the wound. If anything, they promote rot because they keep the wood wet long after a rain. And be sure not to take away too much of the tree at any one time.