Countryside Lawn & Tree Care - Wichita KS

09/11/2026

25 years has gone way to fast! Never forget! Happy Friday!

05/14/2026

One of the most common threats to trees is mechanical damage caused by people using lawn mowers and w**d trimmers. Injuries to the trunk or roots can create openings for insects and disease, weaken the tree, and in severe cases, lead to decline or death.​

Click here for more information on mechanical damage to Trees: https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/FNR/FNR-492-W.pdf​

03/25/2026

03/25/2026

Did your leaves look like this last year? Now is the time to treat for CEDAR-APPLE RUST, It is a fungal disease that can significantly weaken the tree, spoil fruit, and cause premature defoliation.

Symptoms of cedar-apple rust on flowering crab and apple are easily identified. In late spring
or early summer, bright, yellow-orange spots approximately 1/8 to 1/4 inch in diameter form
on the upper surface of leaves. These spots gradually enlarge and turn orange. Small black
fruiting structures of the fungus form in the center of the lesion on the bottom of the
leaf.
Leaves with numerous spots drop during the summer. Premature defoliation weakens the tree
and reduces fruit set and yield the following year. Trees with severe defoliation also are
susceptible to other diseases. Cedar-apple and cedar-quince rust may cause fruit lesions.
Diseased fruits develop deep pits or become distorted and usually drop before harvest.
The severity of rust infection on apple in the spring is highly dependent on weather conditions.
It is also dependent on the amount of infection that occurred two years previously on juniper,
since those infections eventually produce the active galls of the current year that in turn
produce the spores which infect apple. A combination of a large number of active galls along
with wet spring weather can result in serious infection of apple.
Recommendations: Fungicide sprays during April and May are critical to preventing disease
on susceptible varieties.

03/18/2026

Spring is here so here are your spring time deals, give us a call!
316-838-3375

12/25/2025

11/22/2025

Sunscald damage on trees occurs during the winter months, when the sun warms up dormant tissue on the south or southwest side of a tree’s trunk. When the sun heats up the bark tissue enough, the tree loses its dormancy, and water begins to move within the trunk. Then, as the sun sets and cold nighttime temperatures return, the water inside the trunk tissue freezes, expanding and killing bark cells in the tree trunk. Young and thin-skinned trees are most susceptible.

Prevention is the only way to deal with this problem. Start by wrapping young or recently-planted trees with a light-colored tree wrap from the ground to the start of the first branches. Commercially produced wraps are available in the form of a white plastic tube, a flexible heavy plastic strip that is coiled around the trunk, or heavy white-colored paper wrap. Wrap trees in November and remove the wrap the following March.

For more information, visit:https://hnr.k-state.edu/extension/horticulture-resource-center/common-pest-problems/documents/Trees%20-%20Sunscald%20on%20Trunk.pdf

11/19/2025

Fall is the optimal time to fertilize Tall Fescue lawns – especially in November. November fertilizer applications help lawns green up earlier the following spring. In addition, fall fertilizer applications to cool-season grasses improve turf density, color, root growth, and food storage, all of which will lead to better turf next spring.

Fall fertilizations are so beneficial to a health Tall Fescue lawn because research shows that root growth of cool-season turfgrass occurs after shoot growth has slowed or ceased. This occurs because roots grow well when soil temperatures are between 40-65 F degrees, while shoot growth prefers temperatures in the 60-75 F degree range.

Remember to think where the fertilizer ends up after the application. Avoid fertilizer applications if weather forecasts call for heavy rainfall. A ¼ inch rainfall event is a good way to move fertilizer into the soil without creating fertilizer runoff. Take time to sweep or blow any fertilizer that ends up on the street, sidewalk, or patio back into the turf. Any granular material on a hardscape will probably go down a storm drain before entering our ponds, streams, and rivers during the next rainfall event.

Don’t forget to do a soil test at least every 3-5 years to make sure the fertilizers you are applying are the nutrients your soil needs. Your local extension office can help with soil testing.

For more informationhttps://bookstore.ksre.ksu.edu/pubs/fertilizing-kansas-lawns_MF2324.pdf

09/11/2025

We never forget!